Frederick Wildman November 2004
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Frederick Wildman Hugel et Fils Gentil 2003
Producer Background: The Hugels have been winegrowers in Riquewihr, Alsace, for over 350 years, with twelve generations continuing an unbroken tradition. They own a 65-acre estate planted mainly with Riesling and Gewurztraminer, with small plots of Tokay Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. Their vines are placed on the grand cru slopes of Sporen and Schoenenbourg, although these names do not appear on the labels: only the Hugel “signature” appears as guarantee of the highest quality. The supply from the family domain is supplemented by grapes (and not wine) purchased and vinified in their cellars.
Wine Type: Dry White
Country: France
Region: Alsace
Vinification: 2003 was the earliest vintage in Alsace since 1893!
It was a very unusual year that will long remain in our memory. Budburst was early, flowering begain at the end of May, summer was scorchingly hot and dry, and picking for the still wines began on 8 September. For young vines and for vines planted on lighter soils the crop was particularly small. Results vary widely from vineyard to vineyard, but in general it was a better year for clay-limestone soils.
Overall volume was 25% below average. The wines are rich and full, with low acidity levels, much like in 1947. A small quantity of late-harvest Vendange Tardive wines was produced, but no Sélection de Grains Nobles due to the absence of botrytis (noble rot). The wines should be quick to develop and ready to drink quite soon.
Generic "Hugel" wines are made exclusively from grapes purchased from winegrowers under long-term contract, in a dozen of the most favoured localities around Riquewihr. This wine revives an ancient Alsace tradition that wines assembled from noble grape varieties were called "Gentil". Gentil "Hugel" allies the suave, spicy flavour of Gewurztraminer, the body of Pinot Gris, the finesse of Riesling, the grapiness of Muscat and the refreshing character of Sylvaner. The grapes are taken in small tubs to the presses, which are filled by gravity, without any pumping or other mechanical intervention. After pressing, the must is decanted for a few hours, then fermented in temperature-controlled barrels or vats (at 18 to 24°C). The wine is racked just once, before natural clarification during the course of the winter. The following spring, the wine is lightly filtered just before bottling, and the bottles are then aged in our cellars until released for sale. Tasting Notes: Exactly what one would expect, with a tonically youthful pale pastel green colour. A frank, open bouquet that displays all its charms with juvenile casualness : perfumed, aromatic and freely approachable. Such liveliness accurately indicates a crisp, refreshing palate that exhilarates the tastebuds by bringing out its fresh grapey character and thirst-quenching qualities. This is a wine that deserves to be enjoyed before the end of the year, which I encourage you to do, because here at last is a quaffing wine for sheer enjoyment. Serve it chilled at 6 ou 8°C as an apéritif, with shellfish, with fish in court-bouillon or marinated, with asparagus, or simply on its own.
Food Match: sushi, soups, shellfish, salads, pork, fish, BBQ, asparagus, Asian cuisine, Antipasto
Frederick Wildman Jaboulet Cotes du Rhone 'Parallele 45' Rouge 2003
Producer Background: The firm of Paul Jaboulet Ainé has been a trend-setting grower and shipper in the Rhône Valley since 1834. Director, Michel Jaboulet is aided by various members of the family in the everyday business of making excellent and exclusively Rhone wines. Jaboulet makes 26 Rhône wines, and 95% of their production is red. Their 228 acres of vineyard now include almost all of the prestigious appellations in the northern half of the Valley. Wine Type: Dry Red
Country: France
Region: Rhone
Vinification: Traditional, with whole bunches or de-stemmed grapes, and fermentation in temperature controlled vats. Matured in cask and in bottle.
In 2003, not a drop of rain fell on the Rhone Valley after May 15th. As elsewhere in Europe, the harvest began a month earlier than usual, with white grapes being picked by August 18, reds as of the 25th. Grenache, which ripens late, was gathered in the second week of September. The Cotes du Rhones from this hot, dry vintage offer attractive ripe fruit in a warm, generous style quite suited for earlier-than-usual drinking. Tasting Notes: Cherry red color with mauve hints, deep and intense. Intense and complex bouquet, with red fruit aromas (raspberry), uplifted by spicy notes (pepper, coriander).
Fresh and lively, with a remarkable tannic structure and power. Food Match: roasts, pizza, pasta in meat sauce, grilled meats, beef. |
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